“Once things really start ramping up past the tutorial-heavy first level and mechanics like jumping over spikes, flying to collect rings, and switching lanes are introduced (all also conveniently done with some easy combination of X and the left analog stick), these sound cues become more than just rewarding signals of a job well done - they become necessary to the beat. Everything in Thumper has smart sound cues that indicate whether you’ve done something right: a deep, bassy thump when you land beats, a bright creak when you bank a perfect turn, multiple clunks increasing in pitch with each red bar you destroy. As a rhythm game, Thumper is all about the music, but it’s the little reactive noises here and there that make up the bulk of its captivating audio experience. It’s nice to see my name climbing up the as-of-now scantily populated leaderboards, but the most rewarding part is the sheer satisfaction of executing each beat in a sequence and hearing the way my movements perfectly match the beat of the music. This invites replayability, and even after running through several levels for the third or fourth time, I’m still finding small new ways to milk more points from each track. Doing the bare minimum of avoiding dangerous obstacles will get you through all nine levels just fine, but if you want to move up from the low C to a B, A, and finally S rank, you need to learn the nuances.
Thumper cam full#
Some clevos are just noisy.“You don’t need to know most of this to complete the full game, which keeps Thumper accessible to players of all skill levels without requiring any adjustable difficulty settings. I put it down to a couple of loose hydraulic plungers as I have already looked at the faces and they look perfect. This is what I do but even at that, my valves are still noisy. Use a conventional mineral oil but use a Zinc additive like Rislone or any break in lube that contains zinc. Use a race oil like Fuchs Titan, but these need changing at half the km a normal oil does due to much lower detergent content (this causes sludging otherwise). I don't take any chances now.įind a street oil with around 1500ppm of zinc, but they are getting hard to find. They started reducing it a lot when it was found that this additive destroys catalytic converters. Older oils contained good amounts of ZDDP("zinc") additive to provide the required coating on high pressure parts like cam lobes and lifters.
Modern oils are not designed to be run in flat-tappet engines. I would guarantee almost with 100% certainty that the wrong oil was put in. so rebuilding bottom end replacing oil pump and yeah. Checked lifters and they were toasted, checked cam and the lobes were bad. replaced all brake booster coz vacuum problems but got from states and was crap, so had old one reco'd and replaced all braks, brake lines ect while there but still had a miss. Spent a shit load rebuilt box new computer b&m shifter and box still not tuned coz of the cam now. Had trouble with the tuning on the computer for the e4od trans so took to the auto shop. Had to put fuel line, pump, reg to new tank to get started then new tail shaft and cross member to try get it to move. The dizzy was rubbish, the oil pump was a cheapo that used to get a stuck relief when cold (blowing oil filters off). Oh and one piston was pressed onto the rod backwards. Engine was filthy inside like they'd built it in a garden shed. 4 out of 8 rods and pistons were installed backwards (would have destroyed the crank in minutes). My workmate convinced me to strip it anyway and lucky I listened. Yeah I learnt that lesson hard when I bought my "reco" 302C which hadn't run yet. Wanted to put a stroker in it but the trans i just had rebuilt and new quick2 us shift computer is not as strong as was expecting, but good enough if was just what it started as before cam was toasted. Motor wasn't running so been chasing my tail and have caused myself other dramas like the msd I get for the cam that was in it can't take a roller cam coz of the gear.
I started arse about face when I got the truck. Think I need 11cc dished pistons (not 100% still) then the valve springs and valve lockers, then rocker arms if wanted the thumpr cam. Would have gone for flat top pistons but the oz heads have small combustion chambers.
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